同学们大家好，还记得之前的话题吗？

“当一名调香师是种怎样的体验？”

同学们脑洞大开，提出了各种各样有趣的问题。传送门→邀你与调香师聊聊天: 以香水为工作是一种什么体验？

可惜篇幅有限，我们只能精选出其中一部分最有代表性的回答并提交给调香师。

解答我们问题的调香师是Nicole Mancini。她来自世界知名的一线香精公司——瑞士奇华顿香精香料公司（Givaudan）。同时她也是KKW之香曼妙裸砂的调香师，创作了金卡戴珊这个名人香水品牌下的大部分香水。

以下是与Nicole Mancini专访的完整问答部分，我们同时放出了英文原文以及中文翻译，希望能够解答你的疑问。

▷How did you know that you wanted to become a perfumer?

从什么时候开始，你开始有了成为一名调香师的想法？

Very early as a child I was fascinated by perfumes. Growing up, I could never imagine the beauty and the richness of possibilities that creating a perfume implied. As I discovered more with time, the idea of creating olfactive emotions became very exciting. I was so fascinated with all the possibilities of ingredient combinations and the fact that it was endless. I absolutely fell in love and that’s when I knew!

在我还是个孩子的时候，我就被香水所吸引了。 在成长的过程中，我难以想象创作一款香水意味着极大的美学与深度。在随后的日子里，创造出嗅觉情感的想法越来越让我感到兴奋。各种各样的香料通过搭配组合，可以创造出无限可能，这一点深深地吸引了我。在这个时候，我知道我完全地爱上了这个行业。

▷How did you become a perfumer?

你是如何成为一名调香师的？

Actually I have joined Givaudan as an application chemist. I felt so passionate that I studied on my own all of the raw materials, the accords, and the classics. My chemistry studies combined with a major in psychology turned out to be complimentary to join the Givaudan perfumery school in Paris, France. After perfumery school, I returned to the US and mentored under Master Perfumers. Soon enough I could start working on my own projects.

其实，我当初是以“应用化学师”的身份加入的奇华顿香精香料公司。我当时充满热情，所以自学了所有与原材料、气味组合，以及经典作品有关的知识。我原先的化学以及心理学专业知识让我备受青睐，帮助我进入了位于法国巴黎的奇华顿调香学院。从调香学院毕业之后，我重新回到了美国，并在一名调香大师的指导下展开工作。不久之后，我就有能力开始独立进行属于我自己的项目了。

▷How much freedom do you have when creating a perfume?

你在创作一款香水时，有多大的自由度？

Creativity itself is unlimited, even though sometimes the perfumer is given precise information such as a direction, a story, an olfactive family, colors, keywords… all of it being known as a ‘customer brief’. If you let yourself be truly inspired by the elements of the brief, freedom to create comes from your inner self and is unlimited.

创造力本身是没有限制的。即使有些时候，调香师会收到如何调制香水的明确要求，比如大体方向、故事内涵、香调家族、液体颜色等关键词。这些就是我们所熟知的“客户要求（customer brief）”。如果你真的能从客户要求中找到灵感，自我启发并且放飞想象力， 那么自由便会是无限的。

▷Is it true that perfumers spend more time developing top notes, so thatcustomers immediately feel attracted by the perfume on the shelf and buy it?

调香师是不是会花更多的时间研发香水的前调？所以消费者在香水柜台试香时就会上被吸引，并且下单购买？

Indeed top notes are very important, because this is what customers smell at first. If you compare a perfume to an unforgettable story, top notes could be like its synopsis, it needs to catch the attention from the beginning, but base notes can be seen as the twist of the plot, they make lasting impressions. A perfume is made of all raw materials which were carefully selected so that it becomes a great harmony.

香水的前调的确十分重要，因为他是消费者最先会闻到的部分。如果把香水比作一个让人难忘的文学故事的话，前调是这个故事的大纲概要，它必须从一开始就吸引到人的注意力。但香水后调就好像故事中跌宕起伏的情节，它让故事整体更加难忘。一款香水中所含的所有原料都是精心挑选的，所以它们才得以完美共存。

▷Do perfumers need to have a good imagination?(Which ingredients would you choose to create a scent that smells like moonlight?)

调香师需要有很好的想象力吗？（如果要创造出一种像月光一样的香味，你会选用哪些原料？）

Beyond a good imagination, a technical approach is very important to make sure your idea gives birth to a harmonious scent.I would associate moonlight with a silver gold color. I would choose aldehydes for their brightness, geranium for its metallic rose quality, musks and salicylates for an ethereal atmospheric volume. Each perfumer will have their own interpretation so that would be an interesting project to see everyone’s different ideas of moonlight!

比想象力更重要的是，如何用技术手段将你的想法转化为和谐共存的气味。我会将月光与白银或黄金的颜色做关联。我会选取醛来表现月光的明亮感，选取天竺葵来表现金属玫瑰一般的质感，选取麝香和水杨酸来表现轻盈飘渺的空气氛围。每一个调香师都会有他自己的独特诠释，所以如果能看到不同调香师对于月光的见解将是一个很有意思的话题。

▷Where does your inspiration come from?

你的灵感从何而来？

My inspiration comes from all around me. I love looking towards nature and how nature creates so many beautiful scents.Also, just my experiences when I’m traveling or seeing new art or trying different foods.

我的灵感来自于我的生活。我喜欢观察自然，并且思考大自然是如何创造出如此之多的美妙气味的。另外，我自己旅游、欣赏艺术，以及尝试不同美食的经历都是我的灵感来源。

▷What is your favorite material? What material is hard to use?

你最喜欢的香水原料是什么？哪种原料是最难使用的？

You can’t choose between raw materials, they are all important. It is really hard to choose one or two between them. However I truly love‘orange flower’ at the moment, it’s so elegant, full volume, and fresh. But who knows what I’ll fall in love with tomorrow.It’s hard to use Lemon sometimes because a lot of people associate this smell with functional cleaning products.

你很难在诸多原材料之中做抉择，它们都非常重要。所以你很难在它们之中选取一两个最喜欢的原料。不过我最近迷上了“橘子花”这种原料，它闻起来非常优雅，馥郁且清新。但是谁知道我明天又会迷上什么新的原料呢。“柠檬”是一种难以使用的原料，因为很多人都将它的味道会联想到清洁剂类型的日化产品。

▷Are there any challenging aspects for a perfumer?

作为一名调香师，有哪些具有挑战性的地方？

Patience and being able to accept to represent someone else’s ideas, and makingyour creations available to other people. Never stop proposing ideas, it is a never-ending process.

耐心、乐于接受并代为执行他人的想法、创作他人得以接受的作品。这是一个永无止境的过程，所以要永不停歇地提出新想法。

▷Can I buy essence oil to try the scent so I can learn the smell of the material？For example I never smelt hyacinth. So I want to buy hyacinth oil to find out.

我能购买天然香精油来了解香水原料的气味吗？比如我从来没有闻过风信子，所以可以买风信子精油来了解它的味道吗？

It is very nice that you show an interest for raw materials, but it is not because raw materials are added into a formula, that it will make a perfume. Perfumery is an art and a complex ‘savoir-faire ‘. Hyacinth oil for example is not used in perfumery as a natural, it is a creative accord created by perfumers.

你能对香水原料感兴趣这一点难能可贵。但香水配方中含有这些香水原料，并不意味着这些原料可以制作香水。调香是一门艺术，同时也是一门“处世应变”的学问。比如风信子精油，在香水业中并不会使用天然的风信子精油来制作香水。香水中的风信子的气味是被调香师合成出来的一种创意性气味。

▷What are your views of the Chinese perfume market?

你对中国的香水市场有什么看法？

Historically Chinese consumers have always felt attracted by classic European perfumes. Currently we want to explore and understand even further about Chinese olfactive identities and how scents can as well be considered as the embodiment of someone’s personality.I was in Shanghai a few years ago, discovering Chinese consumers’ relationship with fragrance. I was fascinated how much fragrance played a role in their everyday life.

从历史上来看，中国的消费者一直都会被经典的欧洲香水所吸引。就目前而言，我们想更加深入地研究并了解中国人嗅觉特征，以及气味会如何代表一个人的人格特质。几年前我曾在上海研究中国消费者与香水的关系。香水对中国消费者日常生活的影响很大，这一点深深地吸引了我。

鉴于很多同学都对“如何成为一名调香师”这个话题感兴趣，所以特意告知一下大家，其实奇华顿公司旗下有专门的调香学校。

香水时代曾在2014年发布过长达3集的《BBC香水纪录片》（香水时代原创中文字幕），在这个纪录片中，BBC曾对巴黎的调香学校做过专访。有兴趣的同学可以点击查看这篇往期专题→ BBC 香水纪录片第一集；第二集；第三集

以下是奇华顿调香学校的一个官方介绍：

位于法国巴黎的奇华顿调香学校有着传奇一般的历史。从始至今，它培育了很多知名的调香大师，并持续致力于传承香水制造的优良传统工艺。在2015年10月，奇华顿首次在法国以外的地方，在新加坡开设了新的调香学校。奇华顿在中国有8个办事处，从事日用香料和香水香精领域。奇华顿官网：www.givaudan.cn

在专访期间，由于正好赶上了Nicole的新品上市任务，所以只选取了少部分问题做解答。虽然篇幅有限，但希望大家可以通过这篇专访获得一些新的知识。祝大家能够在香水的海洋之中找到自己的真爱。香水时代也会不忘初心，秉承着真心服务每一个香水爱好者的原则，持续为中国消费者输送更好的香水文化。