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慕莲勒 (Molinard)香水工厂,是历史最为悠久的一家。它的故事,具有经典意义。十九世纪的时候,香水调香大师慕莲勒创立了该品牌,而后,工厂被企业家阿尔伯特·斯特勒收购。在其家族五代人的苦心经营下,慕莲勒诞生了一个个香水的经典:哈巴妮特香水(Habanita)和与之相匹配的莱俪(Lalique)小水晶瓶;浓情密语香水(Les Fleurettes)和与其相配的巴卡莱特(Baccarat)小水晶瓶,这两款香水一直被誉为古典香氛的代表作,而印有慕莲勒标志的莱俪和巴卡莱特水晶香水瓶,至今也仍是一些古董香水瓶收藏家梦寐以求的收藏品。
现在慕莲勒已经是一间出色的香水沙龙,无论是收藏品丰富的小博物馆,还是配有高级科学设备的大型实验室,这里都将传统工艺和现代科学完美的相结合。
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- 这是我近期很爱的一支香。它并不难描述,乍一闻无非是一块凸现出烟熏感与甜度的木头,这也正是我初闻时的感受。但仔细品味便能理解它内容的丰富。前调是带着冷感与涩意的雪松加上略带辛辣湿润的琥珀,其间若有似无的夹杂着紫罗兰与干果的甜。整体给到我的感觉是尖锐、清透的。大约二十分钟后,广藿香和乌木开始发力,但并非寻常的药感广霍与厚重乌木,也许是用量的关系使它闻起来更加轻盈。琥珀的烟熏感加重,逐渐变暖,与广霍乌木混合成了一股奇特的气息:乌木的暖与广霍香的凉、二者共同的苦与琥珀的甜所结合,加上恰到好处的烟熏颗粒感,甜苦交织,冷暖相融,既混浊又清澈。这些看似矛盾的气味并未产生激烈的碰撞,而是毫不冲突地彼此交融,形成了一种让人舒服的微妙气味。到了后调,万籁俱寂,回归平稳。先前的颗粒感被磨平,只留有檀香与香草的柔和与顺滑。暖意与奶甜更偏向于常规美食调,闻起来让人感到心神安稳。虽然叫雪松木,但雪松却并非主角,可以说这支香没有主角,也可以说每一种香料都不可或缺。
看到楼上一则香评中写到:和很多古早的香水一样,毫不时尚前卫,毫不吸睛抢镜,纯靠质朴和纯净的力量征服你。我对此深表赞同。如果把它形容为一本书,那它一定不会是像《百年孤独》那样情节纠杂晦涩,而是和《一个人的朝圣》一样通俗却内含深意。内心的想法大可不必全部外露,但向深处发掘的思想却是我们必须具备的。
- 初见,暑伏。
精致
端庄
典雅
不高调、突出诠释生活至美。
与身体的结合顺滑,毫无突兀违和之感。
真心赞。
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Fragrance Daily写道:
Cher wood, a most brilliant creation from the house of Molinard perfumes located in the Agora of perfume heraldry-Grasse, France- will turn out to be every ‘Woody’ perfume lovers dream which I will explain in full detail with a spectacular convincing analogy. But, before I commence, a confession arrives and regrettably so, that this composition ‘snuck’ past me initially but I did not let it get away. After all, the marketplace is inundated with woody themes:
A. Some type of Sandalwood fragrance with a ‘Royal’ or ‘Imperial’ moniker.
B. Some type of Oud Fragrance with the exact title as the former
C. A combination of both (A and B) and then some…as it will never end anytime soonBut the sheer affinity of ‘Woody’ keeps us coming back for more encores no matter how routine it gets. Woody’ can be routine but never boring except for a few perfumes that I wish not to discuss….and I mean just a few not a handful. After all, Woody is very hard to butcher.
So, Molinard decides to name this release Cher Wood and enlists the assistance of your typical but not unusual woody triumvirate; Sandlewood-Oudh-Cedar as the dominant themes. As mentioned above in example ‘C’ the Sandalwood, Oudh and other (Cedar) has been done before however, this time it’s different and very impressive. You would think Molinard which is an established perfume house that has been in existence since 1849 and is a family operated unit that Cher Wood could come across as a little stuffy and outdated compared to recent woody offerings.
When you finally experience Cher wood ‘stuffy’ is removed from one’s vocabulary. Cher Wood is completely fascinating bridging the gap between the Nostalgia and Modern. The wood notes are big, bold, formal, crisp and austere while the ancillaries provide the modern tendencies of contemporary woody! The smell of Cher Wood seems as if Molinard procured bundles of fresh wood from a dense German forest and came dangerously close to duplicating the scent of the prized sample. To take things further, this prized wood is then basted with mouth watering notes of Madagascar Vanilla and an unusual amber replete with nuances of warm raw honey and ripe tree sap. Cher Wood brings the forest to your doorstep. From random reviews I have read Cher is described as woody with a powderish feel but for me I don’t exactly share the same opinion. Cher Wood is more coarse and granular from the first few sprays. This is from the very meticulous assembled notes of sandalwood, cedar and a sprinkling of oudh which adds to the coarse-granular description. The wood notes are sharp and edgy but reel you in with their abrasiveness. The Oudh does not feel very smoky but more like soft fumes rising from the ashes. In all honesty, I can vouch for the manner in which the Oudh performs. It is minimal but in Cher Wood the remaining notes are exaggerated.
As we move from nostalgia to modernity there is a peculiar sweet smell that blends in with the woody notes. These sweet notes could easily be mistaken for spicy and screechy notes of clove but it is the way of dried fruits. Dry fruit and woods really take this fragrance over the edge as you cannot refrain from spraying more and more of this ingenious combination. The fruits of this selection resemble more of dates, raisins, fig, pomegranate and sugared coconut which works it way in the dry down later but oh so remotely. Then, it is the mix of amber which I find entertaining. It’s not your typical amber/ambroxan molecule or the numerous variations of spicy, earthy and ambergris tones. This amber is more ripe and resembles the sap found oozing endlessly from the cascade of trees in the forest. I also detect small traces of honey but more raw pure and natural. The amber for this composition is one of a kind as it adds to the forest and wood smell.
As we proceed from the foundation scents of the ‘Cher’ the ancillaries present the modern part of the duality. Pachouli, florals, vetiver and madagascar vanilla complete the final ingredients in small bursts. Periodically, bursts of Vetiver mixes with the wood, amber and fruits to warrant a feeling of pine-forest air. Pachouli is neutralized somewhat but it definitely adds to the sharp edges and granular feel. The floral notes are a mystery on purpose. With antagonism, Molinard leaves you in suspense choosing between jasmin, peony or orchid. The florals come later in the dry down, 8 hours later, when this beautiful moist powder smell arrives to flirt with the earthy vanilla. Maybe it changes from moist powder to creamy but Molinard commands a a truly thin line to really agitate your ‘Olfactories’. While wearing Cher Wood one day it dawned upon me while I was at a coffeehouse reading Franz Kafka. Cher Wood did not smell that much different then this heavenly maple-pecan Scone with frosting I was eating. Of course this comparison was realized after I sprayed a generous amount of Cher Wood 8 hours earlier. This presents an idea of just how everything blends hours later. Just mouth watering neutral sweetness with fresh wood highlights and everything great about Cher Wood. oops, I almost forgot about the stunning dried fruits backdrop against the wood! By now the ‘Cher’ is currently housed in the YUMMY category…it is truly-truly delectable.
So, where does Cher Wood belong in the annals of ‘woody’ perfume history? Without one iota of hesitation ‘Cher Wood places in the Top 10 of classic woody fragrances despite a “3” rating on the Molinard site and an 4.5 average rating everywhere else. It is that much more remarkable. If you fancy the woody of Oud Wood-Tom Ford, Santal Majuscule-Serge Lutens, Royal Oud-Creed and others of this ilk than it is imperative to recognize Cher Wood. The signature scent and genius created by Molinard beckons all!
如此高的评价是我入手的原因。
- 想出掉,对我来讲这个味道有点太平了
我是喜欢香草的,但是这个有种烟熏琥珀香草的味道,不是我喜欢的那种柔软的丝滑的香草,不太爱这种烟熏的木质风味,如果有想收这瓶香水的,请联系我
- 线性的甜甜的暖暖的干燥的木头,虽然靠近闻有点冲,但是很好闻。喜欢甜木头的可以盲入。气味值五星。
扩散不行,只适合抱着手吸。
&留香也太短了吧??上皮3小时左右就没了??
因留香短扣一星
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慕莲勒 雪松木 Molinard Cher Wood, 2014
