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香水时代评分
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留香时间 (231 票) -
最明显的气味
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+气味投票香水简介
Atelier Cologne欧珑 由Christophe Cervasel 与 Sylvie Ganter夫妻俩于2009年2月共同建立的品牌,二人共同的热爱便是香水中传奇经典的所在—古龙水。他们将对创作的渴求与渴望合二为一,建立了第一家专注古龙水的香水之家并为香水世界创造了一个全新的品类:“Cologne Absolue 精醇古龙” - 一款极具清新优雅个性,并能像浓香水般留香持久的古龙水。一般来说,男士比较偏爱古龙水的清淡味道,让人误会古龙水就等于男士香水。其实,古龙水是指柑橘香调的香水,最早的古龙水因诞生于三个世纪前的德国科隆而因此得名,由一位意大利调香师创造。他将记忆中家乡的味道,化作柑橘精油调出清新的香气。在那个盛行浓烈香氛的时代,它的出现掀起了革命性的风潮,激发出香水使用的全新之道。历经年复年的调配与尝试,梦想终于成为现实。现在, Atelier Cologne欧珑 的“Cologne Absolue 精醇古龙”的诞生也是香水的革新。每一款精醇古龙的萃取香精浓度均达到15%-20%,柑橘调子配搭上其他珍贵的香水原材料,赋予精醇古龙清新优雅,却又个性独特,留香持久。他们为香水家族创造出一个全新的品类:精醇古龙因此诞生。产品共分为四个系列:非凡系列、完美纯粹系列、稀有珍品系列、特别系列,国内现已上市16款产品。
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- 名称略有挂羊头卖狗肉之嫌,因沉香在实物中几近于无。所以请勿轻信香调表,它对关键信息不仅尽数隐瞒,而且谎报。
甜暖细腻的绒面革与富有韵律的果香相结合,柔美而舒适,但是否似曾相识呢?没错,湛蓝沉香即是*Tom Ford 托斯卡纳皮革*的又一款仿制品。除此之外,市场上还有一款青出于蓝的仿制,名为*Rasasi La Yuqawam Homme*,可视为Tuscan Leather Forte(托斯卡纳皮革极致版)。沿着同样的逻辑,如果欧珑的仿制配方交由TF发布,名称应当为Tuscan Leather Aqua(托斯卡纳皮革之水)。
细节上,湛蓝沉香通过牺牲一定的深度与厚度而达到易穿性上的妥协,以此契合欧珑对易穿性的严苛诉求。较之其本尊,湛蓝沉香少了一丝深邃,多了一分莹润水汽,更显柔美之态。只可惜,朴素的皮革向来非正道,换言之,托斯卡纳皮革存在的问题,湛蓝沉香并未解决,而是全然承袭。尤其,进一步的打磨与精简,令本已单薄的层次变得愈发纤薄而脆弱,化学气息彰显无遗,味同嚼蜡。
考虑到湛蓝沉香整体表现为一款低清配方的托斯卡纳皮革,而零售价格却与本尊相差无几。至于作何选择,答案不言自明。
评分:4.0/10
- 试香时间:11:00
试香温度:9度
留香时间:10小时左右
第一印象:冰凉的水生调,浓郁而带着冰冷的感觉。
联系场景:沉睡在深海里面的远洋舰,朽木里透着死亡的气息,传说中的宝石随着沉船,消失在漆黑的大海里,只留下折射的光芒。
总体印象:这款香水无意是惊艳之作,虽然我被前调略显平庸的水生调晕得云里雾里,但是前调很好的营造了蓝宝石的冰冷而迷人的特点,中后调是最惊艳的地方,香调急转直下,从甜到沉重的皮革香,带着少少烟熏感,透着舒适的温暖感,后调在乌木中透着微微香草的气息,给人一种十分放松的感觉。这款香水的层次感十分好,可谓是惊喜不断。
瓶子评价:欧珑经典的方平,用了蓝色标签突出蓝宝石的主题略显单调,没有把瓶中物的惊喜表露于瓶身。
收藏建议:喜欢水生调和皮革木质香的香友不妨试试,建议一次少量的喷,这款香水的冲击力还是挺大的,很容易晕香。
- When you first meet him - a gentleman in his early forties at the corner of that small Irish bar. A Donald Draper kind of man - handsome, neatly-shaved, obviously rich, self-possessed. You know he has had a world of women since his early age. You know he belonged to a world one computer screen from yours. But somehow, this time, he's right there, sitting at the corner with a neat whisky (and the usually rude bartender was very polite to him: "how may I help you, sir?"). And you see the corner of his mouth rising along with his eyebrows in such a tender, almost caring, way, an extraordinary attention that you found yourself too plain, too humble to deserve.
What can you do? He came to you in such a strong, assertive manner of oud and smoky leather that almost suffocates you - you, you small college girl in a Forever-21 dress and a W.H. Auden in your purse. Then he left, with an astounding brunette holding a Coach purse ("How do you do, Mr.So-and-so"). There you go, staring at them with your eyes empty, almost vacant. The warmth of smoky leather and the one-second thrill of the fact that you *were* seen by someone like that. The toxic dream of becoming something different is now in you, lingering with that warm, tender, romantic aura of him.
Then you went back to your corner, alone, with your gin-n-tonic (rudely thrown at you, small, powerless Asian woman). The ice was melting inside it. your fingertip lingered on the wet glass. It was a sour, cold touch.
- Masculine.
Dark woody, leather.
I don’t like the smell of suede. Just like I didn’t like Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather…
The newer version (dark blue bottle) launched in April 2022 is lighter and more wearable than the older version (silver bottle).
Not safe for work, may make people nauseous.
Better for winter months.
Sillage and longevity are stronger than the other lines from Atelier Cologne.
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